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The polar regions
are more hostile to life

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than any other part of the Earth.

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Human beings have little
natural protection against the cold.

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So why, for thousands of years,

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have we endured the hardships
that come from living here?

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And what keeps us coming back today
to the farthest extremes of our planet?

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Winter in the most northerly town
on Earth, Longyearbyen.

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Here, for three months of the year,
the sun never rises.

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Only the full moon,
which never sets as far north as this,

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sheds any light into the darkness.

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This town was built here in Svalbard,
only 700 miles from the North Pole,

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to support a mine.

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The Arctic is rich in coal, oil
and minerals.

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In Siberia, the Russian Arctic,

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the mineral wealth has
given rise to large cities.

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This is Norilsk,
the coldest city on Earth.

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Temperatures regularly drop
to below -50 degrees centigrade.

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Fuel freezes in the tanks of the trucks

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and has to be melted
in a rather alarming way.

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Ships are frozen into the rivers
for nine months of the year.

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The ice must be cut away
from their hulls

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because steel becomes brittle
and vulnerable to the thickening ice.

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Like all Arctic cities,

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Norilsk depends on a power plant,
which heats everybody's home.

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Waste heat from the plant
even keeps a lake ice-free all winter.

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Even at air temperatures of -50,

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the Norilsk Walrus Club come here
every day.

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There is evidence that
a dip in cold water

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is good for the immune system,

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but when the water
is a degree above freezing,

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it's hard to imagine that the benefits
could outweigh the pain.

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Today's Arctic city dwellers

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can lead an almost normal existence,
thanks to technology.

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But towns and cities
are very recent arrivals

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in the polar landscape.

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The polar regions are the least
populated part of our planet.

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Most of the Arctic remains
empty of human beings.

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In the north, the Pole itself is
covered by a freezing ocean.

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Around it lie vast lands,

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of which Siberia is
the largest and coldest.

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Human beings first ventured onto
the great plains of Siberia, the tundra,

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thousands of years ago,
and some live here still.

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The Dolgan are one of the few tribes
who still live in much the same way

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as those first Arctic pioneers.

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They are reindeer people.

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Reindeer are one of the few animals

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that can endure these
bitterly cold conditions,

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scraping a living
by nibbling tiny plants

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that survive beneath the snow.

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Nobody has ever totally tamed reindeer,

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but today's animals are docile enough

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to allow the Dolgan to
drive them across the tundra

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in an everlasting search for their food.

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This is a typical Dolgan village,

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home to just two extended families.

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Here, in the coldest part of the Arctic,

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the only way to get water
for nine months of the year

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is to melt ice from the frozen rivers.

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At least there's no problem
preventing food from decay.

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Outside is one big deep-freeze.

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Survival is only possible
because of reindeer fur.

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It makes wonderfully warm clothing,

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though small children still have to be
sewn into their clothes

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to prevent instant frostbite.

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The Dolgan even use reindeer fur
to insulate their huts.

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This is living at its most communal.

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Good relations with the in-laws
are essential.

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Reindeer are so valuable

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that the people only eat them
if they have no other choice.

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Their favorite food is raw fish
from the frozen rivers.

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Every week or so,
these families have to travel

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to find new feeding grounds
for their herds.

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First, they round up
their strongest animals with lassoes,

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a skill that their ancestors brought
with them

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when they came north from Central Asia.

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And then, literally, they move house.

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A whole Dolgan village can
move on in just a few hours.

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Over the year, they travel
hundreds of miles like this

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across the vast tundra.

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It was the herds of reindeer
wandering over the lands of the Arctic

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that brought the first Dolgan here.

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Other people, however,
took on an even greater challenge.

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They left the land

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and looked for their food
out on the frozen sea.

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Here, in the shifting world
of the sea-ice,

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they found sea mammals.

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Pasha leads a group of Inuit men
in Chukotka,

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the northeastern corner of Russia.

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The men have travelled many hours
from home in the bitter cold,

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fighting their way
through a dangerous maze.

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These 100-tonne ice floes

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could crush their small boats
like eggshells.

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The men have big families

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and this is the only way they have
of feeding them.

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Pasha is looking for the puffs
of steamy air produced by their quarry,

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an animal that is bigger
than many Arctic whales.

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A two-ton seal with formidable tusks.

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A walrus.

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It's heading for open water.
They must reach it before it dives.

100
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An angry walrus could easily
overturn the boats.

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The harpoon sticks firmly
in the walrus's thick layer of blubber

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and floats attached to it
prevent the animal from diving.

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Pasha wants to kill quickly
with a single clean shot.

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The hunters are exhausted
after a long day,

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but they still have
a lot more work to do.

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This enormous prize will feed
everyone's family for weeks.

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It will take
many hours to butcher.

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Nothing will go to waste.

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The meat is parceled up in bags
made of the animal's skin.

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It's midnight, but the sun is still up.

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Summer is almost here.

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This far north, the seasons change fast.

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The sun is rising higher
and growing warmer

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with each passing day.

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The transformation from winter to summer
is so dramatic

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that it dominates the lives
of all who live here.

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The ice around the coast
has almost disappeared

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and gone are the seals and walrus
that Pasha and his men relied on.

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They set off on another search for food.

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Their destination is
an island in the bay.

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Their walrus-skin boat
is an ancient design,

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light enough to carry high up the beach
so it doesn't drift away.

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Once again, the men will
have to work as a team.

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But one of them of will be
taking very serious risks.

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The lightest man in the group,
Kolya, is also the oldest.

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He will trust his life to
a length of old nylon rope

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and the strength of his friends.

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These 100-metre-high cliffs
are home to thousands of guillemots

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and Kolya is after their eggs.

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He relies on the men above
to lower him to the right place.

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Kolya is tough
but his stress is obvious.

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The men lower Kolya down
to the bottom of the cliff

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and from there he works his way
back up the crumbling rock face.

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This mission will
produce no more than about 50 eggs,

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but at least there's no need
to carry a packed lunch.

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Over the years, many men
have fallen to their deaths

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collecting seabird eggs.

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This is truly dangerous work.

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These Arctic peoples can't grow crops.

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00:17:08,240 --> 00:17:11,639
The frozen ground never thaws
to allow them to do so.

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00:17:12,440 --> 00:17:14,839
They rely on animals for their food,

142
00:17:14,920 --> 00:17:17,719
so the chance
to collect a few dozen eggs

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has to be taken,
even if it means risking your life.

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The change of season has
transformed the Arctic's coastline

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00:17:41,960 --> 00:17:45,359
and inland,
the difference is just as extreme.

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July temperatures on the tundra
can be surprisingly high,

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00:17:53,400 --> 00:17:55,479
over 30 degrees centigrade.

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00:17:59,240 --> 00:18:02,839
Reindeer now move
not just to find fresh pasture,

149
00:18:02,920 --> 00:18:07,199
but also to avoid the summer swarms
of bloodsucking flies.

150
00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:11,039
To keep their animals healthy,

151
00:18:11,120 --> 00:18:13,559
the local herders are
driving them to the sea.

152
00:18:16,360 --> 00:18:20,199
The cooler conditions on the coast
bring relief to the herds

153
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and the chance every year
for different tribes to meet.

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Pasha and his hunters live close by.

155
00:18:29,960 --> 00:18:32,719
They've had word
of the herders' arrival.

156
00:18:38,520 --> 00:18:42,519
The hunters' cargo is
highly prized for the winter ahead,

157
00:18:42,600 --> 00:18:44,399
fat-rich walrus meat

158
00:18:44,480 --> 00:18:47,959
that's been fermenting
in the skin bags for two months.

159
00:18:49,640 --> 00:18:52,399
Today will see an exchange
that has taken place

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every summer for centuries.

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The herders barter reindeer skins
for walrus meat.

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00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:03,399
Pooling their resources
has helped these communities

163
00:19:03,480 --> 00:19:05,399
to survive for so long.

164
00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:13,359
A fry-up of guillemot eggs
is all the better

165
00:19:13,440 --> 00:19:15,279
when shared with old friends.

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00:19:18,840 --> 00:19:22,919
Summer brings a brief chance
for isolated peoples to meet.

167
00:19:23,320 --> 00:19:26,199
This is an opportunity to exchange news,

168
00:19:26,280 --> 00:19:29,439
arrange weddings,
and tell the latest jokes.

169
00:19:39,080 --> 00:19:41,399
By August, the summer is over.

170
00:19:41,920 --> 00:19:44,239
Winter arrives only too swiftly,

171
00:19:44,320 --> 00:19:47,999
but the peoples of the Arctic,
who came here originally to hunt,

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00:19:48,080 --> 00:19:52,319
have devised ways to deal with
the hostile and changing conditions

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00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:54,799
that have stood the test of time.

174
00:19:56,440 --> 00:19:59,559
Today, there's a new draw to the Arctic.

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This is Greenland,
a territory of Denmark,

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now known to be rich in oil
and precious metals.

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This sled team is part of
the Danish Special Forces.

178
00:20:29,840 --> 00:20:32,359
They're on one of the world's
toughest journeys,

179
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a 2,000-mile patrol

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00:20:34,480 --> 00:20:37,999
to maintain Denmark's claim
to this valuable wilderness.

181
00:20:42,520 --> 00:20:45,119
But the patrol's mission
is only possible

182
00:20:45,200 --> 00:20:48,919
with the help of man's
oldest Arctic companion.

183
00:20:55,480 --> 00:20:58,479
Rasmus and Roland have
spent the summer months

184
00:20:58,560 --> 00:21:01,999
training and getting to know
their team of Greenland huskies.

185
00:21:02,360 --> 00:21:06,239
They need to have a very close bond
with every single dog.

186
00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:09,439
This is Roger and Armstrong.

187
00:21:09,520 --> 00:21:13,959
Actually the oldest dog
in the whole patrol,

188
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:16,719
but he's still going strong.

189
00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:20,199
The men are totally dependent

190
00:21:20,280 --> 00:21:23,439
on the stamina of their dogs,
which will keep on running

191
00:21:23,520 --> 00:21:26,319
all through the bitter cold
of the winter.

192
00:21:32,560 --> 00:21:36,599
This is the last time the team
will see the sun for two months.

193
00:21:41,400 --> 00:21:45,639
The most intelligent dogs always lead,
choosing the safest route,

194
00:21:45,720 --> 00:21:48,639
feeling for hidden crevasses
and thin ice.

195
00:21:58,800 --> 00:22:00,799
This is one of six teams

196
00:22:00,880 --> 00:22:03,559
that patrol the whole
of northeast Greenland,

197
00:22:03,640 --> 00:22:06,239
the only people in an empty wilderness

198
00:22:06,320 --> 00:22:09,759
that is larger than France
and Great Britain combined.

199
00:22:13,240 --> 00:22:17,079
Conditions here are too extreme
for current mining technology.

200
00:22:17,680 --> 00:22:19,639
But someday, ways will be found

201
00:22:19,720 --> 00:22:22,279
of digging out
the huge mineral treasures

202
00:22:22,360 --> 00:22:25,079
that lie hidden within these mountains.

203
00:22:26,600 --> 00:22:32,279
The patrol secures Denmark's claim
to do so simply by being here.

204
00:22:43,920 --> 00:22:46,039
But it's not the prospect
of getting rich

205
00:22:46,120 --> 00:22:48,599
that makes men sign up for this patrol,

206
00:22:48,680 --> 00:22:51,719
it's the chance
for the journey of a lifetime.

207
00:22:52,840 --> 00:22:55,479
The team travel over the ice
for six months,

208
00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:57,959
covering up to 40 miles in a day.

209
00:23:00,960 --> 00:23:04,759
Friendship and teamwork are essential
if they are to succeed.

210
00:23:07,400 --> 00:23:11,359
Their dogs can sleep outside
no matter how cold it gets.

211
00:23:11,800 --> 00:23:14,879
Rasmus and Roland
have a nice, cozy tent.

212
00:23:19,320 --> 00:23:21,959
They have a few modern conveniences,

213
00:23:22,040 --> 00:23:24,919
including a radio with which
they report their position

214
00:23:25,000 --> 00:23:28,959
back to headquarters in Denmark
and catch up on the latest news.

215
00:23:33,080 --> 00:23:35,319
Right now, it's the section of money,

216
00:23:35,400 --> 00:23:39,359
what's new in the economy in Denmark,
the financial crisis

217
00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:43,399
and all the other things that
we actually don't care about out here.

218
00:23:44,800 --> 00:23:46,879
If you can cope
with the conditions,

219
00:23:46,960 --> 00:23:50,159
then winter in the Arctic
can be magical,

220
00:23:50,240 --> 00:23:54,079
especially when the greatest
light show on Earth is overhead.

221
00:24:03,760 --> 00:24:07,039
The first humans in the Arctic
believed the Northern Lights,

222
00:24:07,120 --> 00:24:11,039
or Aurora Borealis,
were dancing spirits.

223
00:24:11,440 --> 00:24:12,999
Now we know the lights are caused

224
00:24:13,080 --> 00:24:17,279
by electrically charged particles
streaming from the sun,

225
00:24:17,360 --> 00:24:20,679
attracted by the magnetic pull
of the Earth's poles.

226
00:24:32,920 --> 00:24:36,279
A big aurora storm
contains enough energy

227
00:24:36,360 --> 00:24:38,599
to knock out satellite communications

228
00:24:38,680 --> 00:24:41,879
and power supplies
across the Northern Hemisphere.

229
00:24:41,960 --> 00:24:45,199
So, understanding the aurora is vital.

230
00:24:50,720 --> 00:24:54,559
In Alaska, rockets are used
to study the Lights.

231
00:24:56,960 --> 00:24:59,839
A hundred miles up,
at the edge of outer space,

232
00:24:59,920 --> 00:25:02,719
the rockets release
a cloud of glowing smoke

233
00:25:02,800 --> 00:25:04,839
that's visible from Earth.

234
00:25:09,440 --> 00:25:13,999
The smoke is blown by fierce winds,
which are generated by the aurora.

235
00:25:18,200 --> 00:25:21,559
Mapping the movement of the smoke
helps scientists to understand

236
00:25:21,640 --> 00:25:25,159
how this unearthly spectacle
affects our atmosphere.

237
00:25:46,400 --> 00:25:50,919
They constantly monitor the aurora
to help protect us from its effects,

238
00:25:51,400 --> 00:25:54,319
so the rest of us can
simply enjoy the magic,

239
00:25:54,400 --> 00:25:57,119
just as the Arctic's first people
must have done

240
00:25:57,200 --> 00:25:59,119
thousands of years ago.

241
00:26:14,160 --> 00:26:16,799
For all the many peoples of the Arctic,

242
00:26:16,880 --> 00:26:20,119
the aurora is a reminder
of the sun's presence

243
00:26:20,200 --> 00:26:22,679
throughout the dark days of winter.

244
00:26:26,960 --> 00:26:29,839
But when the sun is below
the horizon in the north,

245
00:26:29,920 --> 00:26:33,039
it's above it at the southern end
of our planet.

246
00:26:35,800 --> 00:26:39,039
Here, humanity's history
has been very different.

247
00:26:44,240 --> 00:26:47,639
Antarctica is far colder
than the Arctic,

248
00:26:47,920 --> 00:26:52,679
and 99% of its land
is permanently blanketed by ice.

249
00:26:54,240 --> 00:26:58,319
Antarctica is so utterly remote
and inhospitable

250
00:26:58,400 --> 00:27:00,799
that no people ever settled here.

251
00:27:03,960 --> 00:27:06,119
It was only 200 years ago

252
00:27:06,200 --> 00:27:10,319
that the first human beings
even glimpsed the vast continent.

253
00:27:17,960 --> 00:27:20,719
The first people
who crossed the Southern Ocean

254
00:27:20,800 --> 00:27:22,719
did so for the same reason

255
00:27:22,800 --> 00:27:25,519
that the first people went
to the Arctic Ocean,

256
00:27:25,600 --> 00:27:27,679
to hunt sea mammals.

257
00:27:39,880 --> 00:27:44,519
The populations of whales and seals
are only now beginning to recover

258
00:27:44,600 --> 00:27:47,999
from 150 years of intensive hunting.

259
00:28:02,640 --> 00:28:05,439
But none of those hunters
ever tried to venture

260
00:28:05,520 --> 00:28:08,959
into the frigid interior of
the Antarctic continent.

261
00:28:10,680 --> 00:28:15,999
The first successful attempt to do that
was made only 100 years ago.

262
00:28:18,120 --> 00:28:19,879
This hut was the base

263
00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:23,479
for one of the most famous expeditions
in polar history.

264
00:28:30,160 --> 00:28:32,759
It was from here, in 1911 ,

265
00:28:32,840 --> 00:28:36,279
that Captain Scott
and his team launched their attempt

266
00:28:36,360 --> 00:28:39,399
to be the first people
to reach the South Pole.

267
00:28:42,680 --> 00:28:46,919
The cold, dry conditions
have preserved the interior of the hut

268
00:28:47,000 --> 00:28:50,159
almost exactly as
the expedition members left it.

269
00:28:56,120 --> 00:28:58,919
Expedition photographer Herbert Ponting

270
00:28:59,000 --> 00:29:02,199
captured the spirit of
the age of exploration.

271
00:29:07,120 --> 00:29:09,159
These first explorers

272
00:29:09,240 --> 00:29:12,599
borrowed the techniques
of the Arctic peoples.

273
00:29:12,840 --> 00:29:18,439
They wore fur gloves and boots
and burned seal blubber to keep warm.

274
00:29:20,880 --> 00:29:24,559
They built sleds based on
a traditional Inuit design.

275
00:29:30,400 --> 00:29:34,519
They even made their sleeping bags
from reindeer hide.

276
00:29:40,240 --> 00:29:44,079
Scott and his men sought
the glory of discovery

277
00:29:44,160 --> 00:29:48,119
in an untouched wilderness
and died in the attempt.

278
00:29:49,320 --> 00:29:51,319
But he and those who followed him

279
00:29:51,400 --> 00:29:54,479
were the first to reveal
the splendor of Antarctica

280
00:29:54,560 --> 00:29:56,559
to the rest of the world.

281
00:30:03,720 --> 00:30:07,879
The lure of adventure
still draws intrepid travelers today.

282
00:30:08,880 --> 00:30:10,479
Like the first explorers,

283
00:30:10,560 --> 00:30:13,679
most modern visitors
come during the brief summer,

284
00:30:13,760 --> 00:30:17,359
when the cold relents enough
for the toughest icebreakers

285
00:30:17,440 --> 00:30:19,959
to reach the edge of the continent.

286
00:30:20,040 --> 00:30:23,359
But most still need
a helicopter to go further.

287
00:30:32,600 --> 00:30:36,319
The scenery in Antarctica
is magnificent and dramatic.

288
00:30:36,720 --> 00:30:40,319
But what really attracts people here
is the wildlife.

289
00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:46,559
An emperor penguin colony
is a particular highlight.

290
00:30:50,120 --> 00:30:52,679
Because human beings
didn't arrive in the Antarctic

291
00:30:52,760 --> 00:30:54,719
until the past few centuries,

292
00:30:54,800 --> 00:30:57,839
the animals have never
developed a fear of man.

293
00:31:01,000 --> 00:31:02,919
But very strict regulations

294
00:31:03,000 --> 00:31:06,479
govern how close people
can approach any wildlife.

295
00:31:08,160 --> 00:31:09,799
And when visitors leave,

296
00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:13,479
they must take every trace
of their visit away with them.

297
00:31:39,720 --> 00:31:43,319
Since 1959, the whole of Antarctica

298
00:31:43,400 --> 00:31:46,239
has been protected
by international treaty.

299
00:31:47,560 --> 00:31:52,039
The nations of the world have agreed
that no country can claim Antarctica,

300
00:31:52,120 --> 00:31:54,679
or prospect for its oil or minerals.

301
00:31:57,320 --> 00:32:00,519
The only significant
human activities allowed here

302
00:32:00,600 --> 00:32:03,639
are those that extend
our scientific knowledge.

303
00:32:06,880 --> 00:32:11,839
But unlocking Antarctica's secrets
requires some unusual tools.

304
00:32:30,160 --> 00:32:32,879
This brand-new robot submarine

305
00:32:32,960 --> 00:32:36,239
has been designed to go far
beyond the limits of any human.

306
00:32:47,960 --> 00:32:51,879
Today this diver is putting
the sub through its paces

307
00:32:51,960 --> 00:32:54,239
on one of its very first dives.

308
00:32:56,360 --> 00:32:59,199
It's designed to be small
and nimble enough

309
00:32:59,560 --> 00:33:03,159
to explore the Antarctic seabed
without damaging it.

310
00:33:18,640 --> 00:33:21,919
The submarine's mission
as it journeys into the unknown

311
00:33:22,000 --> 00:33:25,719
is to map the sea floor
and look for species new to science.

312
00:33:41,000 --> 00:33:43,719
The seawater here
is a degree below zero,

313
00:33:43,800 --> 00:33:48,079
so even the toughest human diver
can't stay down for long.

314
00:33:50,480 --> 00:33:53,439
The submarine will explore
deeper under the ice

315
00:33:53,520 --> 00:33:55,679
than anyone has gone before.

316
00:34:01,480 --> 00:34:04,999
From the depths of the ocean
to the highest peaks of the land,

317
00:34:05,080 --> 00:34:06,959
new discoveries are being made

318
00:34:07,040 --> 00:34:10,759
even in places which were
first visited over a century ago.

319
00:34:23,600 --> 00:34:26,599
Mount Erebus was an irresistible draw

320
00:34:26,680 --> 00:34:29,559
to the legendary explorer
Ernest Shackleton.

321
00:34:29,840 --> 00:34:34,799
In 1908, his men became the first
to climb this active volcano.

322
00:34:35,320 --> 00:34:36,519
They soon discovered

323
00:34:36,600 --> 00:34:40,039
that this is the coldest place
on the Antarctic coast.

324
00:34:41,160 --> 00:34:43,879
Today's explorers still have to
guard against frostbite

325
00:34:43,960 --> 00:34:45,319
in the height of summer,

326
00:34:45,400 --> 00:34:49,439
when temperatures rarely creep
above -30 degrees centigrade.

327
00:34:55,480 --> 00:34:57,919
Shackleton's men had no idea

328
00:34:58,000 --> 00:35:01,879
of the extraordinary spectacle
that lay beneath their feet.

329
00:35:07,840 --> 00:35:10,519
Yeah, okay, up on
the wall there somewhere now.

330
00:35:10,600 --> 00:35:14,399
Under the ice and snow
is a network of caves,

331
00:35:14,480 --> 00:35:18,999
which only a handful of expert cavers
have ever dared to enter.

332
00:35:25,640 --> 00:35:30,879
This is the first scientific expedition
to explore them in detail.

333
00:35:35,080 --> 00:35:39,999
Here there are ice formations
that occur nowhere else on Earth.

334
00:35:43,120 --> 00:35:47,039
Each cave contains its own
unique collection of structures.

335
00:36:14,960 --> 00:36:17,239
The team is mapping the caves

336
00:36:17,320 --> 00:36:20,319
to see how their shape changes
over the years.

337
00:36:21,240 --> 00:36:23,199
Okay, flat side to here.

338
00:36:31,880 --> 00:36:36,279
That's 126.8 degrees for the angle.

339
00:36:36,400 --> 00:36:38,119
-126.8.
- Correct.

340
00:36:38,200 --> 00:36:41,879
Steam leaking
from vents in the side of the volcano

341
00:36:41,960 --> 00:36:46,759
is constantly sculpting this labyrinth
that extends deep under the ice.

342
00:36:49,000 --> 00:36:52,879
When the hot breath
of the volcano hits the icy walls,

343
00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,399
the moisture in the air
freezes into beautiful shapes.

344
00:37:10,280 --> 00:37:12,399
Some of the crystals are so unusual

345
00:37:12,480 --> 00:37:16,839
that the cavers are investigating
a remote but tantalizing possibility

346
00:37:16,920 --> 00:37:18,839
about their formation.

347
00:37:20,800 --> 00:37:24,079
Could it be that some of these
extraordinary crystal shapes

348
00:37:24,160 --> 00:37:27,159
are formed by highly
specialized bacteria

349
00:37:27,320 --> 00:37:28,999
living in the ice?

350
00:37:44,280 --> 00:37:46,439
Nobody yet knows the answer.

351
00:37:46,760 --> 00:37:49,519
This is just one of
the many strange mysteries

352
00:37:49,600 --> 00:37:54,039
that draw people to work in a place
that is so hostile to human life.

353
00:38:01,360 --> 00:38:06,679
While some scientists come to Erebus
to explore its bizarre ice caves,

354
00:38:06,760 --> 00:38:08,519
others visit the volcano

355
00:38:08,600 --> 00:38:11,839
to study the innermost workings
of our planet.

356
00:38:17,280 --> 00:38:20,599
Erebus is one of the most
active volcanoes on Earth,

357
00:38:21,200 --> 00:38:25,319
but even so, volcanologists work
on the very rim of its crater.

358
00:38:27,320 --> 00:38:29,159
They stand in the bitter cold,

359
00:38:29,240 --> 00:38:32,479
while 100 meters below them
is a lava lake

360
00:38:32,600 --> 00:38:36,079
where temperatures are
over 1 ,000 degrees centigrade.

361
00:38:39,520 --> 00:38:42,999
This is a rare glimpse
of the molten rock

362
00:38:43,080 --> 00:38:45,599
that lies beneath the Earth's crust.

363
00:38:59,920 --> 00:39:03,479
But research here is
looking up as well as down,

364
00:39:03,800 --> 00:39:07,159
measuring how the gases
that bubble out of the volcano

365
00:39:07,240 --> 00:39:10,119
influence the make-up
of the air we breathe.

366
00:39:13,760 --> 00:39:18,399
Antarctica is the best place to measure
any changes in our atmosphere

367
00:39:18,480 --> 00:39:21,519
because it has
the least polluted air on Earth.

368
00:39:23,440 --> 00:39:28,399
It's also the perfect place
to launch more outward-looking missions.

369
00:39:34,840 --> 00:39:38,839
This balloon, made of material
no thicker than cling film,

370
00:39:38,920 --> 00:39:41,759
will eventually grow to be
300 meters tall.

371
00:39:45,400 --> 00:39:48,679
It will carry a device
for detecting cosmic rays,

372
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:51,679
tiny particles
from the beginning of time

373
00:39:51,760 --> 00:39:53,839
that are only now reaching Earth.

374
00:40:05,760 --> 00:40:09,639
The balloon will travel to
the very edge of outer space

375
00:40:09,720 --> 00:40:13,039
to gather clues about
the formation of the universe.

376
00:40:22,320 --> 00:40:27,519
Even today, very few ever make
the journey inland from the coast.

377
00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:32,799
We still know remarkably little
about the interior of the continent.

378
00:40:35,040 --> 00:40:37,279
The people on this plane
are trying to answer

379
00:40:37,360 --> 00:40:39,519
one of the fundamental questions.

380
00:40:39,600 --> 00:40:42,639
How much ice is there in Antarctica?

381
00:40:49,280 --> 00:40:51,479
They measure the depth of the ice sheet,

382
00:40:51,560 --> 00:40:55,479
which is over 4,000 meters in places,
using radar.

383
00:40:57,600 --> 00:40:59,559
Their work will enable us to see

384
00:40:59,640 --> 00:41:03,239
how the volume of Antarctica's ice
changes in the future.

385
00:41:04,560 --> 00:41:08,079
It also makes it possible
to map a hidden landscape.

386
00:41:21,560 --> 00:41:26,639
This plane is following the same route
through the Transantarctic Mountains

387
00:41:26,720 --> 00:41:29,399
that Captain Scott took 100 years ago.

388
00:41:30,200 --> 00:41:33,959
His team hauled their sleds
over 100 miles

389
00:41:34,040 --> 00:41:36,479
up this glacier, the Beardmore.

390
00:41:42,960 --> 00:41:47,159
Skirting seemingly endless crevasses,
with no map to guide them

391
00:41:47,240 --> 00:41:49,359
and no idea of what lay ahead,

392
00:41:49,440 --> 00:41:52,319
it was a journey of
extraordinary suffering.

393
00:42:03,120 --> 00:42:08,999
Their target lay beyond the mountains,
over 3,000 meters above sea level,

394
00:42:09,080 --> 00:42:11,079
on the Antarctic Plateau.

395
00:42:17,520 --> 00:42:20,999
An unbroken sheet of ice
larger than Western Europe,

396
00:42:21,240 --> 00:42:26,519
this is the coldest, the windiest,
the most lifeless place on Earth.

397
00:42:30,720 --> 00:42:34,439
Roald Amundsen's team
narrowly defeated Scott's

398
00:42:34,520 --> 00:42:37,679
to become the first people
to reach the South Pole

399
00:42:37,760 --> 00:42:41,359
on the 14th of December, 1911 .

400
00:42:42,640 --> 00:42:45,759
Nobody else successfully
completed the journey

401
00:42:45,840 --> 00:42:48,159
for nearly 50 years after that.

402
00:42:52,320 --> 00:42:56,879
But since 1957, there has been
a permanent base at the South Pole.

403
00:42:56,960 --> 00:42:59,839
You can even land a plane
on the ice runway.

404
00:43:02,760 --> 00:43:05,359
The early explorers would be astounded

405
00:43:05,440 --> 00:43:08,239
by the facilities at
the South Pole today.

406
00:43:11,800 --> 00:43:13,559
Construction work isn't easy

407
00:43:13,640 --> 00:43:17,359
when the average summer temperature
is -25 degrees centigrade.

408
00:43:18,320 --> 00:43:20,279
But despite the difficulties,

409
00:43:20,360 --> 00:43:23,799
the most high-tech scientific
research station ever built

410
00:43:23,880 --> 00:43:26,799
was unveiled here in 2006.

411
00:43:32,360 --> 00:43:35,759
The brand-new Amundsen-Scott
South Pole Station

412
00:43:35,840 --> 00:43:39,639
is designed to cope with
the world's most extreme conditions.

413
00:43:40,840 --> 00:43:44,439
The building's sloping edge
deflects the prevailing wind.

414
00:43:45,480 --> 00:43:48,639
Beneath, there are stilts
that can raise the whole building

415
00:43:48,720 --> 00:43:52,999
a further eight meters to keep it
above the accumulating snow.

416
00:44:01,800 --> 00:44:05,079
Living inside is as close to
being on a space-station

417
00:44:05,160 --> 00:44:07,159
as you can find on Earth.

418
00:44:07,520 --> 00:44:10,159
This base is totally self-sufficient.

419
00:44:10,680 --> 00:44:13,799
The people are completely cut off
from the outside world

420
00:44:13,880 --> 00:44:16,599
for more than half the year over winter.

421
00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:26,759
The total darkness
makes this the perfect place

422
00:44:26,840 --> 00:44:28,759
to study the night sky.

423
00:44:35,960 --> 00:44:40,839
The group of stargazers will be the
most isolated community on our planet,

424
00:44:40,920 --> 00:44:43,959
but they will have
all their needs catered for.

425
00:44:48,800 --> 00:44:51,039
There is even a greenhouse,

426
00:44:51,120 --> 00:44:54,319
where fresh vegetables
grow under artificial light

427
00:44:54,400 --> 00:44:58,159
all through the darkest,
coldest winter anywhere.

428
00:45:14,200 --> 00:45:20,759
The sun sets in March at the South Pole
and won't rise again for six months.

429
00:45:25,280 --> 00:45:27,719
For a few days at this time of year,

430
00:45:27,800 --> 00:45:32,559
high-altitude clouds of ice crystals
continue to catch the sunlight,

431
00:45:32,640 --> 00:45:36,119
even when the sun itself
is far below the horizon.

432
00:45:52,680 --> 00:45:56,359
But soon all trace of the sun disappears

433
00:45:56,440 --> 00:46:01,559
and today's over-wintering scientists
remember the first explorers.

434
00:46:05,440 --> 00:46:09,879
These men, who endured the winter
in flimsy wooden huts,

435
00:46:09,960 --> 00:46:13,519
borrowed knowledge from
the Arctic pioneers before them,

436
00:46:13,600 --> 00:46:18,799
but they came here to study and explore,
rather than to hunt or exploit.

437
00:46:19,560 --> 00:46:21,639
They embodied the human spirit

438
00:46:21,720 --> 00:46:24,599
that has enabled us to survive
at the Poles.

439
00:46:29,080 --> 00:46:31,879
Here we are pushed to our limits,

440
00:46:31,960 --> 00:46:36,679
but in being pushed,
humanity has achieved the extraordinary

441
00:46:36,760 --> 00:46:39,319
and opened up the last frontier.

442
00:46:57,480 --> 00:47:00,199
To tell the story of
how we survive at the Poles,

443
00:47:00,280 --> 00:47:04,039
Frozen Planet travelled to Siberia,
the far north of Russia,

444
00:47:04,120 --> 00:47:06,759
where most of the Arctic's people live.

445
00:47:09,720 --> 00:47:12,759
The team got to know
many extraordinary people.

446
00:47:15,640 --> 00:47:18,519
But one group of men above all
really opened their eyes

447
00:47:18,600 --> 00:47:20,639
to what it means to live off the land

448
00:47:20,720 --> 00:47:23,679
in the most unforgiving environment
on Earth.

449
00:47:25,760 --> 00:47:28,479
Men who take their life
in their hands every day

450
00:47:28,560 --> 00:47:30,519
just to find their food.

451
00:47:42,840 --> 00:47:45,599
Producer Dan Rees
led the Frozen Planet team

452
00:47:45,680 --> 00:47:48,359
on their longest journey in the Arctic.

453
00:47:49,680 --> 00:47:52,079
Their mission was to film walrus hunters

454
00:47:52,160 --> 00:47:55,079
in Russia's most remote region,
Chukotka,

455
00:47:55,160 --> 00:47:58,159
the closest point to
their old enemy the United States,

456
00:47:58,520 --> 00:48:02,639
4,000 miles and nine time zones
east of Moscow.

457
00:48:03,920 --> 00:48:05,959
It's still a sensitive region

458
00:48:06,040 --> 00:48:08,159
and the team soon learn
that the border guards

459
00:48:08,240 --> 00:48:11,039
remain twitchy
about foreigners with cameras.

460
00:48:17,320 --> 00:48:18,719
To get permission to film,

461
00:48:18,800 --> 00:48:22,039
the crew relied on anthropologist
Niobe Thompson,

462
00:48:22,120 --> 00:48:25,959
one of the few westerners
to have worked with the people here.

463
00:48:27,960 --> 00:48:31,159
But even Niobe finds
a lot of doors closed to him.

464
00:48:32,600 --> 00:48:37,079
I have experienced
a level of red tape

465
00:48:37,160 --> 00:48:38,719
I never could have anticipated.

466
00:48:38,800 --> 00:48:41,959
We've got... We've got our Russian visas
in our passports, that's fine,

467
00:48:42,040 --> 00:48:43,399
but that's just the beginning.

468
00:48:43,480 --> 00:48:47,719
Here is the special permission
given by the security services

469
00:48:47,800 --> 00:48:50,239
to be in the region of Chukotka,

470
00:48:50,840 --> 00:48:53,559
the special permission
to be in every one

471
00:48:53,640 --> 00:48:56,679
of the population centers
we will visit on our trip,

472
00:48:56,760 --> 00:49:00,919
permission to shoot
with a telephoto lens,

473
00:49:01,040 --> 00:49:06,079
permission to shoot from a helicopter,

474
00:49:06,400 --> 00:49:09,839
permission to shoot
in a natural reserve.

475
00:49:10,360 --> 00:49:12,519
But we still don't have
our migration cards,

476
00:49:12,600 --> 00:49:13,799
I'm trying to get them,

477
00:49:13,880 --> 00:49:16,199
and if we don't get them
by the end of the day,

478
00:49:16,280 --> 00:49:17,839
we're going to be deported
back to Alaska,

479
00:49:17,920 --> 00:49:20,319
it'll take three months to get new ones.

480
00:49:20,400 --> 00:49:22,999
Niobe's paper chase
takes two days,

481
00:49:23,080 --> 00:49:25,439
but finally the team is
allowed to begin their journey

482
00:49:25,520 --> 00:49:26,999
to the hunters' camp.

483
00:49:27,080 --> 00:49:29,759
With no roads,
sometimes the only passable route

484
00:49:29,840 --> 00:49:32,879
is over the fast-melting surfaces
of the lakes.

485
00:49:44,160 --> 00:49:45,479
Okay.

486
00:49:49,800 --> 00:49:53,319
They need to be
prepared for a quick exit.

487
00:50:00,560 --> 00:50:03,799
The next day the crew
finally reach the coast.

488
00:50:03,880 --> 00:50:07,599
The hunting camp is now
just 30 miles away across a bay,

489
00:50:07,680 --> 00:50:09,999
but the crossing could be risky.

490
00:50:10,120 --> 00:50:13,559
The frozen sea is melting fast
in the spring sunshine.

491
00:50:19,280 --> 00:50:22,119
It's completely safe,
it's not going to break underneath us?

492
00:50:22,400 --> 00:50:23,999
He said you'll be safe, 50/50.

493
00:50:24,080 --> 00:50:25,239
50/50.

494
00:50:26,800 --> 00:50:30,479
The locals employ
several generations of Arctic transport,

495
00:50:30,560 --> 00:50:33,279
from the ancient to the nearly antique.

496
00:50:38,040 --> 00:50:40,279
With the sea-ice
cracking up beneath them,

497
00:50:40,360 --> 00:50:43,639
Dan has to trust the crew
and a ton of filming gear

498
00:50:43,760 --> 00:50:46,119
to the experience of the locals.

499
00:50:46,880 --> 00:50:50,639
Even by their standards,
this was fast becoming a risky journey.

500
00:50:56,320 --> 00:50:58,959
Where the first sleds crossed
just minutes before

501
00:50:59,040 --> 00:51:00,719
is now impassable.

502
00:51:05,080 --> 00:51:08,599
It's broken right up,
we can't cross the leads in the ice here

503
00:51:08,680 --> 00:51:10,039
so we need to get on some boats

504
00:51:10,120 --> 00:51:13,359
and the ice is just breaking up
too fast for us at the moment.

505
00:51:14,360 --> 00:51:16,439
Fortunately,
the hunters from the camp

506
00:51:16,520 --> 00:51:17,999
turn up in the nick of time

507
00:51:18,080 --> 00:51:21,399
to rescue the crew
for the final leg of the journey.

508
00:51:31,560 --> 00:51:34,399
Six days and 5,000 miles from home,

509
00:51:34,480 --> 00:51:36,479
the crew finally arrive at the place

510
00:51:36,560 --> 00:51:39,399
that will be their home
for the next month.

511
00:51:46,040 --> 00:51:48,279
This is an active hunting camp

512
00:51:48,360 --> 00:51:51,479
and that evening, the team
are introduced to the realities

513
00:51:51,560 --> 00:51:54,239
of fending for yourself in the Arctic.

514
00:51:55,680 --> 00:51:58,439
Yeah, well, we've just seen
a walrus hunt

515
00:51:59,440 --> 00:52:02,079
out here in the waters
of the Bering Sea.

516
00:52:02,480 --> 00:52:03,999
All the meat will be eaten,

517
00:52:04,080 --> 00:52:05,759
they eat an awful lot of
the internal organs as well,

518
00:52:05,840 --> 00:52:07,559
they use the skin,

519
00:52:07,640 --> 00:52:11,319
they use the sinews,
they use the stomach for making drums,

520
00:52:11,640 --> 00:52:16,039
so it'll get used very heavily
and it is completely free-range,

521
00:52:17,520 --> 00:52:19,719
you know, wild caught animal.

522
00:52:21,080 --> 00:52:23,599
You can’t grow
any vegetables up here,

523
00:52:23,680 --> 00:52:27,239
but sea mammal meat contains
all the nutrients the hunters need

524
00:52:27,320 --> 00:52:29,599
and is very low in cholesterol.

525
00:52:29,800 --> 00:52:32,679
Dan is keen to try some of
Kolya's health food.

526
00:52:33,120 --> 00:52:35,199
Well, this is yesterday's seal

527
00:52:35,280 --> 00:52:40,239
and a chunk of flesh there,
behind it is some intestine.

528
00:52:41,080 --> 00:52:42,479
We should try a bit.

529
00:52:43,400 --> 00:52:45,239
That's seal intestine.

530
00:52:48,960 --> 00:52:52,039
It's quite fishy. Fishy...fishy rubber.

531
00:52:52,680 --> 00:52:54,439
That's not too bad.

532
00:52:54,520 --> 00:52:56,559
I thought it was going to be
more disgusting than it actually is.

533
00:52:56,640 --> 00:52:58,199
- The salt helps.
- Yeah.

534
00:52:58,880 --> 00:53:01,359
Would he like
to try some of what we eat?

535
00:53:01,440 --> 00:53:03,519
It's chicken. Chicken korma? No?

536
00:53:05,440 --> 00:53:07,759
I don't blame you, to be honest.

537
00:53:07,880 --> 00:53:09,679
I think yours is much better.

538
00:53:15,640 --> 00:53:17,519
As well as providing food,

539
00:53:17,600 --> 00:53:20,599
the animals here traditionally
provided transport.

540
00:53:20,680 --> 00:53:23,079
Kolya and Pasha, the oldest hunters,

541
00:53:23,160 --> 00:53:26,439
keep alive the skill
of building walrus-skin boats.

542
00:53:27,120 --> 00:53:29,999
You don't need a welding torch
to repair this boat,

543
00:53:30,240 --> 00:53:33,999
just a juicy lump of seal fat
to bung any holes.

544
00:53:36,440 --> 00:53:37,559
By living amongst them,

545
00:53:37,640 --> 00:53:40,639
the crew had really begun to
get to know the hunters,

546
00:53:40,720 --> 00:53:44,879
but there was one big part
of their lives which remained a mystery.

547
00:53:47,760 --> 00:53:49,519
As spring turns to summer,

548
00:53:49,600 --> 00:53:53,199
the hunters head out to an island
to gather seabird eggs.

549
00:53:54,160 --> 00:53:56,319
The crew had heard stories of this,

550
00:53:56,400 --> 00:53:59,719
but had little idea of
what it was going to involve.

551
00:54:00,960 --> 00:54:04,399
That's where they climb,
those are impressive heights.

552
00:54:04,920 --> 00:54:06,519
Quite something.

553
00:54:10,200 --> 00:54:11,919
For cameraman Ted Giffords,

554
00:54:12,000 --> 00:54:16,119
this was the first sight of
the rock face he was about to work on.

555
00:54:20,200 --> 00:54:21,759
These cliffs can be treacherous,

556
00:54:21,840 --> 00:54:25,759
as Kolya, the expert egg collector,
knows only too well.

557
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:55,479
Ted will rely on
steel stakes for anchors

558
00:54:55,560 --> 00:54:58,319
and an array of climbing gear and ropes.

559
00:54:59,600 --> 00:55:02,439
Kolya preferred to stick
with the simpler method

560
00:55:02,520 --> 00:55:04,799
that has served him well for many years.

561
00:55:10,840 --> 00:55:13,999
The crew can't quite believe
what they're seeing.

562
00:55:21,240 --> 00:55:25,719
If he fell on that,
that would be absolutely horrendous.

563
00:55:25,800 --> 00:55:27,159
It's, uh...

564
00:55:27,720 --> 00:55:30,399
Yeah, it's a bit sketchy,
and the rope is only about that thick.

565
00:55:31,360 --> 00:55:33,439
It's an interesting method.

566
00:55:33,640 --> 00:55:35,959
The limestone cliff
is loose and crumbling

567
00:55:36,040 --> 00:55:39,439
because of hundreds of years
of freezing and thawing.

568
00:55:41,120 --> 00:55:44,079
Even for a highly trained
professional climber like Ted,

569
00:55:44,160 --> 00:55:46,159
it's a dangerous descent.

570
00:55:56,240 --> 00:55:59,319
Kolya has been climbing here
for four decades,

571
00:55:59,480 --> 00:56:01,599
but this is the first time
he's had company

572
00:56:01,680 --> 00:56:04,999
and sometimes he forgets
that Ted is just below him.

573
00:56:07,640 --> 00:56:11,719
Climbing supervisor Adam Scott
holds his breath as he watches.

574
00:56:12,160 --> 00:56:17,039
A fall to the rocks 100 meters below
would almost certainly be fatal.

575
00:56:26,960 --> 00:56:29,999
This is the most hardcore thing
I've ever seen.

576
00:56:34,760 --> 00:56:37,759
It was when the team
returned to the boat to finish filming

577
00:56:37,840 --> 00:56:40,039
that they got their
most spectacular view

578
00:56:40,120 --> 00:56:43,439
of the lengths Kolya was going to
to get his dinner.

579
00:56:47,800 --> 00:56:50,119
This shot sent the team home

580
00:56:50,200 --> 00:56:53,839
with a fresh perspective
and a deep respect for these people

581
00:56:53,920 --> 00:56:56,719
who still live off the land
in the Arctic,

582
00:56:57,400 --> 00:57:00,719
a way of life
for which there is no safety net.


